Latour's second wine, Forts de Latour, is now one of the two or three finest second wines of Bordeaux (Bahans-Haut-Brion and the Clos du Marquis of Leoville Las-Cases are two other personal favorites). The terrific, dark ruby/purple-colored 1995 possesses a sweet, jammy black fruit-scented nose intertwined with smoky minerals, earth, and spicy oak. The wine is surprisingly thick and rich in the mouth, with its glycerin and concentration of fruit largely concealing the moderate tannin. This excellent, sweet wine is less powerful, but more accessible than the 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2015.

Intense aromas of crushed blackberries and cassis. Full-bodied, with ripe fruit and velvety tannins. Long. Slightly one-dimensional. Needs to develop.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.