This blend of four varieties, topped by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, shows off its terroir in the richly smooth, soft, complex tannins. There are pleasant flavors of blackberries and cassis, as well as an earthy streak that brings to mind mushrooms sauteed in soy sauce. It will probably age, but is terrific now with a grilled ribeye steak.——S.H.(6/1/2004)—— 91