Sol Huarpe’s top wine, Xumek, has style and saucy sass. It’s not just cookie-cutter ripe and rich, but instead shows herbs, mushroom and also ample black plum and berry flavors. In general it’s nice for those seeking a touch more from their Argentinean Malbec. And it hails from lesser-known San Juan and not Mendoza, which may explain its unusual characteristics.——M.S.(12/1/2007)—— 88