Phelps' Merlot program is coming of age. Approximately 10% Cabernet Sauvignon is included in the blend, and the wine is aged in primarily French oak with a touch of American. About 30% of the barrels are new. The beautiful 1997 Merlot boasts a dense ruby color in addition to an attractive bouquet of berry fruit infused with smoke and mocha. This full-bodied, rich Merlot has a fat, succulent, plush texture, and a chewy, heady finish. It will drink well for a decade. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

Winemaker Craig Williams has made a full-volume, snappy wine with piercing berry aromas that announce its bigness. Very loud and properly spicy, but a touch jagged and unintegrated. Big oak and a heavy finish add to the spunk, but it’s a bit short on harmony.——M.S.(7/1/2000)—— 87