The 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz (made from 45-year old vines that were cropped at one-half ton per acre) reveals a super-ripe, exotic nose of honey and tropical fruits. Still youthful and unformed, this dense, full-bodied, creamy-textured wine is oozing with extract, glycerin, and character. It provides a delicious mouthful of dry, luscious Pinot Gris. Drink it over the next 10-15 years with salmon, Asian dishes, or foie gras. The 1994 offerings look to be some of the most exciting wines to emerge from Alsace. Bott-Geyl's low profile and insider reputation translate into reasonable prices .... for now.Twenty-eight-year old Jean-Christophe is earning considerable accolades from the French wine press for this estate's change in direction. Given the high prices fetched by the truly great wines of Alsace, readers should note that Bott-Geyl's prices have not risen as high as the quality level mandates.European Cellars is located at 121 West 27th Street, Suite 1103, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567
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