Smooth as velvet, with a good balance of cherries, blackberries, violets and new, toasty oak, this is a luscious Merlot, dry and balanced. The alcohol is below 14%, so it’s not one of those chocolaty confections. But it is an elegant, sophisticated table wine that drinks well now and will hold for a couple years.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 89