D’Arenberg’s second-tier whites begin with the 2008 The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc It exhibits aromas of fresh cut grass, baking spices, gooseberry, and passion fruit that jump from the glass. Ripe, balanced, and flavorful, it can be enjoyed with a variety of seafood courses over the next 1-2 years. The d’Arenberg portfolio is loaded with values. The winery works with over 140 growers to fashion their superb blends. For the 2008 vintage, the entry-level The Stump Jump series has been expanded. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Sophisticated scents of cut grass, wet stones and lemon garner points for subtlety. The palate, however, is more direct, with broad notes of peach and nectarine and a chalky texture. There’s a drawn-out, deliciously cherry-berry finish that leaves you wanting just one more sip. Drink now, with roasted cod.——W.E.(12/31/2009)—— 89