The 2008 Riesling Genesis exhibits an alluring nose of slate/mineral, peach, and apricot. Just off-dry and nicely balanced by lively acidity, it will provide pleasurable drinking for another 2-3 years. The Hogue Cellars appears to be in a renaissance of sorts. The last time I tasted their wines I was unable to recommend any of them; times have obviously changed. It is Washington’s third largest producer (600,000 cases) and the vineyards (but not the winery) are still owned by the Hogue family.www.hoguecellars.com

Hogue’s Genesis bottling is far more limited than the winery’s other Rieslings, and offers extra dimensions in terms of concentration and grip. Though just 12.6% alcohol, it tastes dry enough, with juicy acidity and green apple flavors. What elevates it above the less expensive bottling is its length, the minerality and the hints of white flower, Mandarin orange and stone.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 90