The 1998 Chardonnay Santa Rita Cuvee is superb . It offers copious quantities of candied tropical fruit intertwined with leesy, Burgundian-like complexity. Smoky, mineral, and toast notes also enter the picture. Rich and medium to full-bodied, with refreshing acidity, it should drink well for 3-4 years. Tel. (805) 688-0305; Fax (805) 688-2676

Smoky, herbal aromas on the nose have an off-putting edge. The palate, however, displays very good weight, balance and citrusy flavors with earth and mineral notes. A big, mouth-filling wine with positive flavors offset by some difficult aromas.——W.E.(6/1/2000)—— 87