Yalumba’s luxury priced, top-of-the-line flagship wines include the 2004 Viognier The Virgilius, an Eden Valley white, fermented and aged in neutral French oak. While it exhibits more minerality, higher acidity, and greater depth than the regular cuvee, I’m not convinced it is a better wine. However, it may have more aging potential than its less expensive sibling. Give it another 6-9 months of bottle age, and consume it over the following 2-3 years. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

A classy, consistent wine of the first order. Starts off with delicate floral and melon aromas, the honeysuckle component persisting on through the long finish. It’s the wine’s minerality, rather than this floral sweetness, that is its highlight. Round and just viscous enough, closing with mineral and white pepper. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. ——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 93