This firm has dramatically improved the quality of its winemaking. Olivier Leflaive brought in the talented Frank Greux, and the quality of their wine since 1989 has gone from one strength to another. In 1992 several of the wines will be bottled unfiltered. With three consecutive good vintages, Olivier Leflaive is now a name to be considered seriously. The Les Champs Gains is more subtle and restrained than the 1992 Puligny-Montrachet-Les Folatieres, a bigger, thicker, richer wine, with a citrusy, apple, honey-scented nose, and excellent richness and definition. Its long finish displays adequate acidity and plenty of glycerin, fruit, and alcohol. Importer:Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY

A distinctively oaky, smoky aroma and tightly-wound flavors of apple, grapefruit and mint make for a big, bold, square-jawed wine. Has good fruit concentration and a lingering aftertaste. Drinkable now. 100 cases made. -