The lush, opulent, flamboyant 2005 Matriarch offers copious quantities of black cherry and black currant fruit, lead pencil, and earth. Already delicious, it hits just about every sweet spot on the palate. Enjoy it over the next 12-15+ years. This is a special project of Harlan Estate’s owner, Bill Harlan, that is handled by the same winemaking team as Harlan Estate’s, the inimitable Bob Levy assisted by the well-traveled, brilliant oenologist, Michel Rolland. They have 20-year leases on what they believe are some of the finest vineyard terroirs in Napa, from which they produce between 600-700+ cases of these single vineyard offerings from distinctive micro-climates. Anything produced that is not up to world-class quality is culled out and bottled under the name Matriarch. These wines see essentially the same upbringing as the Harlan Estate. They are bottled after at least 22 months of aging in 100% new French oak, and see virtually no fining or filtration. While each offering is completely different from its siblings, they all compete very favorably with Harlan Estate. The newest offering in the Bond portfolio, Quella, comes from a 10-acre vineyard in Spring Valley (located just off Howell Mountain Road) planted on the volcanic white ash called tufa, which contains plenty of cobblestones. The other cuvees include St. Eden (a valley floor vineyard in Oakville), Melbury (on Pritchard Hill overlooking Lake Hennessey), Vecina (a west-facing hillside site near Harlan Estate), and E Pluribus (a Spring Mountain vineyard west of the charming town of St. Helena). The lots culled out from the single vineyard wines are blended together to produce the Matriarch. This is not simply a second wine as nearly one-third of Bond’s (and Harlan Estate’s) production is sold off in bulk, which means the Matriarch is a serious effort on its own merits.Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

The 2005 Matriarch is the closest to full maturity of any of these wines. It still has another 12-15 years of life left in it. It is very fragrant, with sweet black cherry and mulberry notes, dense dark cherries and a full-bodied, gorgeous texture. This is a rather extravagantly concentrated, beautifully round wine, with notes of unsmoked cigar tobacco, cassis and a deep, full-bodied, luscious mouthfeel. Very drinkable, it can continue to be drunk over the next 10-15+ years.

This year’s Matriarch is very similar to Harlan Estate in structure, and in some ways, a superior wine, or at least more delicious now. Shows the most beautiful black currant, cedar, blueberry pie and Asian spice flavors. What makes the structure so gorgeous are the firm tannins. Ultimately, it’s a refined, exquisite red wine. Hard to imagine a better one for drinking over the next decade, and just shows that price sometimes has no relationship to quality.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 98