Readers looking for the taste of Haut-Brion for about one-third the price should check out the 1998 Bahans-Haut-Brion. It possesses a scorched earth, mineral, smoky, red and black currant-scented bouquet, terrific complexity, purity and elegance, and a harmonious palate. Tannin in the finish suggests 1-2 years of cellaring may be required, but this is a serious effort that should age well for 15+ years.

Very attractive aromas of coffee, blackberry and cocoa follow through to a full body, with soft, silky tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Still very youthful, but it's a beautiful, juicy red to drink already. I wouldn't wait.--'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. -JS