Souverain's strength lies in their bevy of Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. The Cabernet Sauvignon offerings merit attention from readers looking for "best buys" in high class Cabernet. The 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Library Reserve (only 200 cases, and likely to be priced in the $30 range when released next year) boasts an opaque ruby/purple color, as well as a sweet, jammy nose of blue and blackberry fruit intertwined with subtle herbs, toast, Asian spices, and licorice. Full-bodied, powerful, and rich, this wine, although loaded with extract, is accessible. Sweet tannin gives the wine a precocious, up-front appeal. It should age gracefully for 12-15+ years.Kudos to Chateau Souverain for continuing to turn out very high quality wines at modest prices.(release date, 12/97)Tel. (707) 433-8281; Fax (707) 433-5174

The 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Winemaker's Reserve is nearly as impressive as its younger sibling. Although cut from the same mold, it may have less concentration and length than the amazing 1995. The supple and precocious 1994 is already complex and evolved. It can be drunk now or over the next 12-15 years. The Cabernet Sauvignons are all best buys, even the more expensive yet still reasonably priced Winemaker's Reserve. These are excellent wines that recall the glory days of Souverain in the late sixties and early seventies. I recently drank the 1974 Souverain Vintage Selection (an early Wine Advocate Best Buy pick which I highly recommended, but suggested drinking within 5-7 years of release). That wine is still holding onto all of its fruit, an example of how a wine that was never a blockbuster, but concentrated and impeccably well-balanced can age so well. The current releases all appear to have at least 10-15 years of cellaring potential.These are underrated, high quality wines that merit considerable attention.Tel. (707) 433-8281; Fax (707) 433-5174