Classic S&B Pinot, young and grapy now, and a little sharp in acids, this wine’s aristocratic rusticity calls for time in the cellar. Shows primary fruit cherries and black raspberries, with earthy, forest floor Portobello mushroom notes and distinctive tannins. Made from the oldest vines in the vineyard, it’s a wine that should ease into its own by 2009, and hold for another five years. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 94