Even richer and denser, with serious structure, the 2011 Syrah John Lewis (100% Syrah, 70% whole cluster and aged mostly in 30% new French oak puncheons) possesses thrilling aromas and flavors of raspberry, blackberry, peppered meat, bacon and olive. Decidedly northern Rhone-like in both its aromatic profile and texture, this medium to full-bodied, balanced Syrah has awesome purity of fruit, notable focus and enough structure to warrant 3-4 years of bottle age. It should have 15+ years or more of ultimate longevity. Drink 2018-2028. These top-notch efforts are made by Greg Harrington, with help from assistant winemaker Brandon Moss, and always show the fresher, more edgy and lean side to the region. Normally fermented with varying degrees of whole cluster and aged in neutral oak, they have Old World, classical profiles and will benefit from short-term cellaring. While I’ve been drinking the Rhone blends from this estate for years, this was the first time I’ve been able to taste Greg’s Bordeaux releases. The house style certainly persists and the wines all show firm, concentrated and age-worthy profiles. From a much warmer vintage, Harrington’s 2009s are more voluptuous and textured than the 2010s, yet still play in the same classically styled ball park of the estate. While more approachable today, I think they will have a similar, if not broader, drink window than the 2010s. Time will tell but at the moment, I generally like the 2009s more due to their fruit, yet I still think the tannin quality in the 2010s is better.www.gramercycellars.com