WillaKenzie’s oldest Pinot Gris vines are almost 15 years of age, and their estate bottling seems to gain in weight and power with each passing year. Chewy and substantial, layered and meaty, it’s a succulent fruit salad; hints of pear and peach, mango and papaya, grapefruit and pineapple. The wine is beautifully proportioned and its richness is never heavy or fat. ——P.G.(12/1/2006)—— 91