Tasters pegged apples, anise, creme brulee and cinnamon in the lively nose of this rich wine—one that also sparked some controversy. The straight-ahead flavor profile is appealing, with solid apple, clove and butterscotch offset by the attractive anise streak. But is it native yeast or heavy malolactic fermentation that’s responsible for the mixed feelings some panelists expressed? Concerns were noted about a dairy-like note on the nose and also a slick, yet gummy texture. Nevertheless, the winning aromas and flavors kept the overall take positive.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 87