Dusty hay, citrus and butter icing stretch from the nose to the palate in lovely layers. The flavors are full and sweet, like cantaloupe rind, but are never cloying, thanks to the spritzy acidity. Finishes dry and faintly chalky with herbs. This is a lightweight and warm style with fine depth. —K.F. ——K.F.(1/1/2004)—— 89