This is a restrained, laid back example aiming for more polish and finesse than unbridled power or intensity. The 1997 Shiraz L'Oizeau takes its name from some of the oldest Shiraz vines in McLaren Vale. Dark ruby-colored, with subtle oak, blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas and flavors, it offers a creamy, medium-bodied personality, excellent purity and ripeness, and a sense of delicacy rather than exuberance. It should drink well for 5-6 years. Imported by The Australian Premium Wine Collection, John Larchet, USA Wine West, LLC, San Rafael, CA; phone: (800)-485-5753 and Chicago Brands, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 466-9300.