Even better is the crisp, elegant, fresh 2007 Chardonnay Home Block. Representing pure liquid rocks intermixed with a cold steel-like structure, it smells of beeswax and citrus oil, but the best days of this backward Chardonnay are still ahead of it. After another year of bottle age, this wine should be “rocking and rolling.” This Santa Cruz Mountain operation is an outstanding, still under-the-radar source of terrific Chardonnay. This area has never had problems with phylloxera, so these are all from the directly rooted (no vines grafted on root stock) Spring Ridge Vineyard. Tel. (650) 321-4894; Fax (650) 321-4893