Vinified in a combination of tank and barriques (a mixed regimen already begun with the 2006), and due to have been bottled this Spring, the Mas Amiel 2007 Maury Vintage Reserve – tasted as an approximation to the intended assemblage – shares with the basic rendition its vivid, jam-like fruit (here black raspberry and strawberry) and high-toned herbal accents (above all mint); its mouth-coating richness (positively creamy); and above all its sense of energy and vivacity, not traits for which one normally looks toward this reserve cuvee. The notes of caramel and brown spice conveyed by the barrel nicely complement the fruit, as does a subtle suggestion of salinity. This should give plenty of pleasure for the next decade. Stephane Gallet has left Mas Amiel, and long-time associate Nicolas Raffy moved into the role of vineyard manager and cellar manager. For his 2007 vintage dry reds, owner Olivier Decelle solicited advice from Stephane Derenoncourt and the especially fruit-forward character of the dry reds from that vintage may be in part on account of changes made in the fermentative and extractive regimen, involving among other aspects only very limited pump-overs. For 2008, a portion of the Carerades will be matured in foudres in lieu of smaller barrels. In vintage 2006, Decelle employed the consulting services of Michel Rolland. The current Mas Amiel non-vintage renditions of ten and fifteen year old wooded are very much in keeping with the character and quality described in issue 173, so I have omitted new tasting notes. Like most of the wines at this address, they represent excellent values. I remain relatively unimpressed (particularly given their high prices) by Mas Amiel’s older, very late-released vintage bottlings.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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