Even better (and considerably more expensive) is the 2007 Eroica Single Berry Select, Ste. Michelle's interpretation of a German Trockenbeerenauslese. Made with 100% botrytis-infected fruit, it is deep gold in color with an explosive nose of candied peaches, apricots, ginger, and fruit cake. Incredibly rich and opulent, it is likely to evoke moans of pleasure for another 10-15 years. Chateau Ste. Michelle's portfolio remains strong.www.ste-michelle.com

For thoughts on Chateau Ste Michelle’s uniqueness and recent evolution, consult my extensive April, 2013 text designed to introduce recent tasting notes. The Ste Michelle-Loosen 2007 Riesling Eroica Single Berry Select is far more interesting, mannerly, and winsome than its 2008 counterpart. Aromas of smoky black tea, truffle, honey, orange marmalade, and peach preserves anticipate the complex flavors that emerge on a palate uncannily poised between textural creaminess and honeyed richness on the one hand and levity and refreshment on the other. The brown sugar and raisins of the 2008 are absent here; instead, spice and citrus rind invigorate, while salted caramel mingled with honey and citrus juice serves for saliva inducement in a long finish. This should be worth following for well more than a decade. This was a warm growing season with heat spikes early-on, but as the terrifically successful dry version of Eroica from the same year also seemed to suggest, its what happens in the late innings that really counts. Tel. (425) 488-1133