The gold-colored 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes (60-70% botrytis affected) was harvested at Grains Nobles levels of maturity yet Humbrecht chose to forego labeling it as such (or even as a Vendange Tardive) because he does not believe it will age as well as wines with those monikers should. It offers a rich, botrytis-laced nose and a dense, oily-textured, medium-to-full-bodied character. This layered wine offers super-ripe peach, apricot, bergamot, earth, smoke, and mineral flavors in its hugely pleasurable core of fruit. Anticipated maturity: now-2008.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.