Negri’s 2004 Valtellina Superiore Quadrio is an intriguing red from Lombardy’s Valtellina. A blend of 90% Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) and 10% Merlot, it spent 18 months in large 80-hectoliter barrels. This is an aromatic, medium-bodied wine made in an ethereal style that requires time in the glass to fully come together. Notes of perfumed cherries, spices and wild herbs are delicately woven into the wine’s soft-textured, caressing frame. This is a great introduction to the wines of Valtellina. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Nino Negri is one the leading producers in the Valtellina district in Lombardy, an area known for its quirky wines based on the local variety of Nebbiolo, Chiavennasca. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700