This reserve Pinot Gris does not come from the estate vines that gave us the luscious regular bottling; here the AVA is Dundee Hills and the flavors are more austere, textural and mineral-laced. Bone dry and a full percentage point higher in alcohol, this wine has a steely spine, and its citrus fruit shows more of the skin and less of the sweet juice. It’s delightful to find two quite different offerings that are so well made from a new and value-oriented producer. ——P.G.(2/1/2009)—— 90