The 2004 Chardonnay Reserve, which comes from the vineyards in Carneros, shows almost Chablis-like stoniness with crisp pear and poached lemon rind notes. It is elegant, medium-bodied, with the oak very discreet and the acidity refreshing and vibrant. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 251-4386

Made in a less ripe style, with citrusy, herbal flavors that are well-oaked and leesy, this very dry Chard displays both elegance and a long finish. If you’re into aging Chardonnays, try cellaring this through 2010. Should be fine. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 89