Peter Michael produces four cuvees of Chardonnay, all of which are outstanding in 1992. The 1992 Chardonnay Clos du Ciel from Howell Mountain reveals a rich, lemony, buttery, subtle vanillin-scented nose, full-bodied, concentrated flavors with a classical Chardonnay profile, and a vibrant, concentrated finish. Bottled unfiltered and without acidification, this wine offers a natural, pure impression on the palate. It should drink well for 3-5 years.The only one of the four 1992 offerings that has been released is the Clos du Ciel. The other three wines will be released on September 1st. I should also note that the 1993 Peter Michael Chardonnays should turn out to be as profound as the 1992s.During my visit, I saw once more an example of the effect of filtration on the aging process of Chardonnay. Peter Michael had produced two cuvees of 1988 Chardonnay Mon Plaisir, one filtered (the one most likely to have been purchased commercially) and one unfiltered (called the Red Dot Cuvee because Helen Turley had put a red dot on the label). Both wines were exactly the same except for the handling they received at bottling. When I tasted the wines during my visit, the filtered wine was stale, with an absence of any fruit in the bouquet, and short, compact flavors. The unfiltered "Red Dot" Mon Plaisir was honeyed, vibrant, and rich, having lost none of its freshness or fruit.One of the most exciting in California, this beautiful winery is owned by Englishman Sir Peter Michael. When he launched this winery, Michael had the foresight to hire the brilliant Helen Turley to oversee the winemaking (Ms. Turley has now left this estate in order to pursue her own venture). The current vineyard/winemaking team shares Ms. Turley's winemaking philosophy. The present as well as upcoming releases are irrefutably brilliant wines. Given the limited availability, readers may want to call the winery to find out about distribution of these wines.The telephone number is (707) 942-4459.