Tar and charcoal emerge from the dark, deep nose, which is also oaky and mildly lemony. This wine is from Western Australia, and it runs toward the rich, ripe and syrupy side. The finish is quite smooth and lush, as it verges on creamy. All in all this offers the right mix of barrels and berries. And it seems fresh, not heavy. —M.S.——M.S.(3/1/2003)—— 89