The 1998 Faro Palari is a subdued and elegant wine that delivers a steady stream of dried fruit, leather, crushed granite, cured meat, cola and black tar or licorice. It doesn’t have the intense brightness of the fabulous 1999 vintage, but it does a great job of holding the banner high for the little-known Faro appellation in the far north of Sicily. Drink 2014-2022. Salvatore Geraci makes one of the icon wines of southern Italy: Faro Palari. An architect by training, this charismatic Sicilian from Messina approaches every detail with extreme precision, from the health of each of his vines to the ambitious restoration of his family manor into a modern winery and tasting room. The magic of his wine, however, is his vineyard. Running late after a long day of appointments, I had the chance to visit his property after nightfall – a fact for which Salvatore has probably not forgiven me. Despite the blackness around us, I cannot exaggerate the beauty of this place. Salvatore’s vineyards (and much of the Faro appellation) remain perched on impossibly steep terraces that look over the Straits of Messina straight into Reggio di Calabria and mainland Italy. We reached his vineyard by Jeep, traveling up a dirt path more appropriate for mountain sheep than motorized vehicle. Using his cell phone to cast an eerie blue light, Salvatore shows me the thick, knotted trunks of his ancient head-pruned vines. The lights of the Italian mainland shimmer in the near distance and muffled horns can be heard from the busy maritime traffic that channels through the Straits. Since the time of the ancients, this thin watery passage – with its dangerous currents and riptides – has sparked both fascination and fear. The legend of the Fata Morgana, a mysterious mirage said to disorient even the most experienced seamen, is born here. The rocky northern corner of Sicily hovers so close to the southern tip of Calabria creating unpredictable wind tunnels and suction. Nothing is subtle about these surroundings. Everything is extreme. Importers: Vinity Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com; Panebianco, www.panebiancollc.com

Complex flavors of tar, ripened blackberries and white pepper stay surprisingly soft in this immense wine. The balance of full tannins and dark fruit, from five indigenous grapes, will make this enjoyable for a long time to come. Cellar Selection.——C.S.(5/1/2002)—— 93