I prefer the 2005 Syrah, more controlled and less excessive with an opulent nose of fig, dates and honey, full-bodied on the palate yet with an almost ethereal balance that allows it to glide across the palate towards a wonderfully-defined, viscous, mulberry finish. These wines are certainly sui generis and whilst my predilection is for less ripe, less sweet styles of wine, I admire the path that Dr. Neil McCallum has furrowed. Dare I say, the “Pavie” of Martinborough? Dry River is one of the iconic New Zealand producers, its modern era commencing in 1979 when Neil and Dawn McCallum planted their first vines in the gravelly “Martinborough Terrace,” since augmented by Craighall and Lovatt vineyards. Though Dry River was sold in 2002, Neil continues as chief winemaker assisted by Katie Hammond and the focus is on late-picked, concentrated, long-term wines. Importer: RO Imports LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 916-3320; fax (212) 916-3306