2008 was a difficult year in the Hunter Valley due to rains at harvest that devastated all but a few patches of red grapes. In 2008 Lake’s Folly was only able to harvest the Cabernet Sauvignon; hence they put this vintage under a different label: 2008 Folly Red. This is a surprisingly good effort with fragrant black currant and blackberry aromas at the core plus hints of baking spices. Medium-bodied with a good amount of mid-palate flesh, it is well structured with crisp acid and a medium level of medium-grained tannins. The finish is long if more straightforward than you might expect for the Cabernets label. Drink it now through 2014. Founded in 1963 by the outspoken, learned and prolific Max Lake, Lake’s Folly has been in the hands of the Perth based owner Peter Fogarty since 2000. Though his core business may not be wine, Fogarty has a real eye for idiosyncratic, boutique wineries, also possessing Millbrook Winery in the Perth Hills and Deep Woods Estate in Margaret River. Since the purchase of Lake’s Folly it has pretty much been business as usual at this iconic estate. Hunter Valley winemaker Rodney Kempe keeps Max Lake’s flame going, preserving traditional methods while producing clean, sensitively crafted wines. As ever Lake’s Folly only produces two wines and neither is a Semillon or a Shiraz, which is presumably where the ‘Folly’ part of the name comes from. However, to visit the place is to realize that this site is truly unique and set apart from the rest of the Hunter. That Max Lake was actually onto something is demonstrated in the consistent high quality and ageability of the wines. Total production here is only around 4,500 cases (less than 25% Chardonnay), with a loyal mailing list pre-buying 50-60% of production every year. I was treated to a vertical of Chardonnay and The Cabernets vintages during my visit in October 2010, with notes to follow.Lake’s Folly does not have a USA importer.