The 2006 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Beerenauslese represents a further selection literally “in house” of the fruit harvested for the corresponding “two star” Auslese. (Unlike growers in other regions, Schonleber points out that he did not have “Fuders full of nobly sweet 2006s – thank God!”) With honeyed, palpably thick richness, and glossy polish, this Riesling redolent of candied, caramel apple and Chartreuse-like herbal liqueur cannot fail to be impressive. But it lacks the striking personality and poise of the “two star” Auslese and suggests a slightly fungal, primary side of botrytis that is slightly less noble. With such strength, diverse flavors, and length, this may well acquit itself fantastically over time, but one should anticipate measuring its evolution in decades. “The Nahe had the capability to render really good dry wines this year,” asserts Werner Schonleber. “Elsewhere, the botrytis was problematic, or the ripening took place too quickly. But we caught the whole spectrum here.” He proceeded to prove this memorably in the glass, with the finest collection I have ever tasted at this address (as well as – improbably – one in which Fruhlingsplatzchen outperformed Halenberg).Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463

Bright, elegant and intense. Honey leads off, followed by lime, candied berry and dried tropical fruit in this light-bodied, electrifying version. Harmonious and multidimensional, with a concentration that defies its weightlessness. Has terrific length. Drink now through 2040. 20 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add