This tastes like pure varietal Cabernet; it’s stiff and tightly wound, and the Horse Heaven Hills fruit has big, drying tannins. Give it some breathing time and it begins to broaden out, showing thin streaks of smoke and iron, along with brambly berry and cassis. This has the structure to age, and should develop further in the bottle over the near term. ——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 88