The 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Weissenberg gives another smoky, pungent account of vintage botrytis, and unfortunately brings with its yet more elevated ripeness almost more residual sugar than the structure, acidity, or perhaps terroir can bear. Caramel and brown spices, musk melon and honey, sultanas and maple syrup – this is almost over the top in more than one sense, and for all of its richness and sweetness, bitterness and dustiness of botrytis give it a slight tactile dry spot in the finish. This strikingly concentrated elixir needs 15 years to work off the effects of its sugar, and then the question is, will the picture botrytis painted really look pretty? Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312