Long-Depaquit’s 2006 Chablis Vaillons – like their basic Chablis – illustrates a shimmering sense of minerality and exhibits faintly bitter lemon pip, cress, and fruit pit characteristics and ample treble citricity to balance an essentially very ripe, plush, subtly honeyed wine. Deep nut oils and malt as well as lip-smacking citrus persist in the sappy, clear finish. The Long-Depaquit estate has been owned by the Bichot family of Beaune negociants for more than three decades, and with the re-emergence of that house as a quality force, one hopes that more attention will be paid to some of the most distinctive and age-worthy wines from one of the largest estates (including 1/6 of the grand cru acreage) in Chablis. Director Matthieu Mangenot and his team harvested in only 12 days.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Fresh and soft initially, this wine takes a while to reveal some mineral structure. But then, deliciously friendly white fruits surround this taut structure. The acidity is crisp, fresh, leaving orange zest and green fruits for the finish.——R.V.(5/1/2009)—— 89