Three bottles of the 2003 El Jefe were tasted (two “off” bottles, one corked), before we passed to the outstanding 2003 Roma En Chamberlin. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, this wine offers almost unctuous aromas of black cherry syrup that lead to its tangy yet candied medium-bodied character. A wide assortment of dark fruits can be found in this pure, expressive wine’s personality as well as in its suave, lengthy finish. Drink it over the next 6 years. Prior to tasting bottled wines, Smith invited me to taste samples from barrels in his converted garage/barn. Though I’m not giving reviews of unfinished wines in this report, the 2003 Syrah “The Hustler” (in honor of Jackie Gleason, “a big man who was light on his feet,” according to Smith) was exceptional yet still months away from being bottled. I mention it because there are only 5 barrels of it and it will go quickly. Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com

An equivalent two-thirds Cab, one-third Syrah blend to the Ovide, this time using En Chamberlin fruit. The wines are strikingly different, equally powerful, but the Roma is perhaps more straightforward with its jammy, full-on cherry/berry fruit parade. Citrus rind lifts the finish, leading into nicely sculpted tannins. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 93