From his winery just off the Silverado Trail in southern Napa Valley, Ray Signorello has fashioned two more brilliant Chardonnays. The 2008 Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes Estate is one of those rare California Chardonnays that come from vines nearly 30 years of age. Exotic, restrained but authoritative scents of nectarines, tangerines and orange blossoms emerge from this light straw/gold-colored wine. Full-bodied with zesty acidity, lots of minerality and a rare intensity in the mid-palate, this impressive, structured Chardonnay’s framework is reminiscent of a red wine’s. It should drink nicely for at least 3-4 years, possibly a decade given its singular style. The wood is completely hidden by the wealth of fruit intensity.

An intense, nervy Chardonnay, grown on the estate along the Silverado Trail. Shows good acidity and a minerality that makes it elegant and firm, giving a bracing structure to the oak-inspired flavors of pineapple tart, peaches and cream.