With its pear-spice profile, hint of petrol and ripe texture, it’s no surprise this is a wine list favorite—it delivers positive flavor and feel in a range crowded with anonymous wines. It may be a touch hotter than the label’s 13%, making it even more like many of its cousins from Alsace. Full, decidedly more Gris than Grigio in style, it’s a winning ATC—alternative to Chardonnay. Best Buy.——W.E.(3/1/2002)—— 88