Here’s a steely, minerally, sleek Chardonnay. Call it Cali-Chablis, if you will. That doesn’t mean it’s lean. Quite the opposite, it’s an enormously complicated wine, with oak, lees and underlying peach custard and spicy mango cream flavors that finish long and dry. And what great acidity. Makes your mouth water. Chalk Hill is simply doing an amazing job lately, especially with Chardonnay. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 93

If there’s any fruit in this massively oaked wine, it’s hard to find. Little but char, vanilla and toast hit you, with a sweet dill finish. ——S.H.(11/1/2005)—— 82