With the 2005 Gruner Veltliner Lamm – in tank when I tasted it, although it fermented in large acacia cask – concentration is ratcheted up. Scents and flavors of honeydew melon accented with spice and accompanied by voluminous, sweet esters but no heat join up with a juicy, crisp, lettuce and cucumber succulence that belies the wine’s density and sheer ripeness. Being used to a more powerful – and frankly, often alcoholically warm – impression for this wine, I was delighted to find this year’s version squarely in the ranks of the more uncannily well-balanced 2005s. Nutty rich spinach and lettuce together with melon and spice strikingly fill out the finish. Time may tame it or even turn it into a ravishing beauty: this is a wine that has certainly surprised me in some previous vintages. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300