The 2004 Riesling Smaragd Klaus is the most meaty and corpulent of this year’s collection. It smells mysteriously (as in “Can this be grapes?”) like a veal, root vegetable and herb stock. In the mouth, its full body and expansiveness do not preclude absolute clarity of flavors, vivid mineral notes and a refreshing store of citrus fruit. The long finish is as mouthwatering as it is thought-provoking. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Flashier on the nose than on the palate, starting with traces of almond, melon and dried spices but moving into flavors of herbs and citrus. A bold beam of acidity drives this wine, which finishes crisp and long. Worth cellaring to see if more richness develops on the midpalate.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 89