Here’s a well-made wine that shows that this important producer can rise to the challenge when it retains its focus on varietal character. This authoritative, smoky wine smells like Syrah and it follows through with firm, supple, rich flavors. The floral and citrus notes, the herbal/olive underpinnings, the ripe—not roasted—fruit all hit the mark.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 89