Melis is a project backed by wine industry folks from California, but this blend of old-vines Grenache along with Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon is very European. It’s heady but well balanced, with smooth edges and not too much fiery attitude, roughness or scratchy tannins. It’s forward and big-boned, but there’s enough creamy richness to make it friendly. Needs plenty of air time now; should hold well for five-plus years.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 92