Bright and easygoing, the 2010 Recioto della Valpolicella Valpantena is loaded tight with blackberry pie, sweet spice, prune, cherry liqueur, cola and baking spice. The wine shows mild sweetness that you definitely register on the palate, but it is not overwhelming. The structure is firm and the finish is driven by loads of fresh cherry. Drink 2014-2018. Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for those who appreciate the storied winemaking customs of the region. In 2011, Bertani was purchased by Tenimenti Angelini (a branch of the Angelini Group pharmaceutical firm). Despite the new ownership, Bertani remains one of the most consistent producers of traditional Amarone. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, www.palmbay.com