The appropriately named NV Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rustico shows good typicity and character. There is nothing fancy here, just a tasty glass of Prosecco. Today, the Rustico comes across as a bit four-square. Perhaps I am being too hard on this wine given its price, but frankly it underperforms relative to the other selections in this range. With a little more body, the Rustico could be a much more interesting wine. This is Lot 11 138. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

There’s a direct approach here in terms of the sparkler’s effervescence that gives the wine an incredibly clean and pristine quality. Rustico is off-dry and that slight sweetness helps move aromas of chopped fruit, banana and peach to the forefront.——M.L.(7/1/2009)—— 87