Weingut Emmerich Knoll Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The Knolls’ 2007 Riesling Federspiel (also labeled “Loibner”) is riper and more put-together than most such generic Riesling Federspiel this vintage, and of course, they were happy just to have some, in contrast with 2006. Pumpkin and ripe peach are shot through with bright lemon making for a bracing and refreshing yet not lean impression that lingers with lip-smacking satisfaction. Enjoy this over the next 18-24 months. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700