The 2005 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken is imposing for its oily richness, satiny texture, and sheer intensity. Full of almond, pecan, ginger, persimmon, and winter squash, it is supremely luscious despite a somewhat austere chalky, stony cantus firmus and a dark, autumnal, low-toned, and slightly warm finish. The mood set is strikingly different from that of the corresponding Spatlese. This, too, will serve for many years of fascination, although I pick the Spatlese as better balanced to go a longer distance. Bernd Philippi is making plans to sell his winery – as has long been expected given there is no one to inherit it – and says he has found a suitable buyer. Details – including all of those for which lovers of Koehler-Rupprecht wines (which seem inseperable from the person of Bernd Philippi) are waiting with baited breath – have yet to materialize. It has always been difficult to cover Koehler-Rupprecht Riesling in the context of a vintage report, because the dry wines are seldom released for at least a full year after already late bottling, the top examples are released years later as “R” or “RR” reserves. When I sat down with Philippi in August, 2007 we as usual tasted through a range of wines including many long ago sold-out, but what follows are notes on a few favorite or still upcoming releases. Unperturbed by the botrytis of the vintage, his 2005s are proving to be almost consistently outstanding.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300