Readers who want to get a sense of what top-flight Verdicchio is all about without spending too much money will want to check out Bisci’s 2006 Verdicchio di Matelica. This richly-textured, full-bodied white changes constantly in the glass, revealing new dimensions to its honeyed fruit with every taste. The high altitude vineyards here have helped give this wine gorgeous aromatics and notable freshness. It is a terrific effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411