The superb 1998 Gigondas Cuvee des Blaches is the finest wine I have tasted from this small producer. A black/purple color is accompanied by a sumptuous bouquet of blackberries, licorice, smoke, and scorched earth. This tannic, full-bodied, serious effort requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should keep for 16-20 years. It is a blockbuster in the making. A Jack Siler Selection, various American importers; Paris fax: 011 33 1 45 45 23 59